Condiments like mango pickle or chutney play an important role in Indian cuisine, at least in Britain. It is ill-advised to spend time slaving over the stove in pursuit of a delicious curry only to forget one of the aforementioned accompaniments – the only possible outcome is disappointment. Unfortunately, good quality pickle and chutney is often rather expensive and you’re far more likely to end up spending your hard-earned money on a jar of overly sweet mango “jam” than you are an intricate and well-balanced chutney. The situation is similarly dire in the case of pickle, which can be hard to find at the best of times. Instead, it is better to find a recipe – such as the one below – and produce your own condiments. It takes a little time, patience and commitment, but the exercise is worth it in every respect.
I am of the opinion that the key to a fantastic pickle or chutney is the use of whole spices. Of course, ground turmeric and fennel provide a wonderful base of flavour, but whole mustard and kalonji seeds provide much needed bursts of intense flavour that really serve to elevate a pickle or chutney above its competitors. Remember, these small additions to a meal aren’t intended to be slathered across every mouthful, they should be powerful and pungent – special not constant.
Above all, time is the most important ingredient in a mango pickle. The mango needs time to dry and the spices time to mature, develop and mellow. Rush this recipe and you’ll simply be left with a soggy pile of putrid fruit, not fit to grace the most mass produced of jarred curries. However, get it right and that curry night you have once a week will never be the same again. Or at least until you realise you’ve devoured the first three jars of pickle and more is needed.
Mango Pickle
Makes 3 jars
Ingredients:
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3 medium-large mangoes
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2 tbsp salt (heaped)
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1 tbsp turmeric
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1.5 tbsp fennel seeds
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1 tbsp mustard seeds, roughly bashed
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1 tbsp kalonji seeds
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1.5 tbsp chilli flakes
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vegetable or mustard oil*, as required
*mustard oil is best used if you want a very pungent pickle.
Method:
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Wash and roughly chop your mangoes, keep the skin on unless it is particularly thick and tough. Coarsely grind the fennel seeds and chilli flakes. Place the mango in a large bowl and cover with the spices and salt – mix thoroughly.
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Cover the bowl with a thin muslin and leave the mangoes in the sun for 3-6 days – until dry. If finding enough sunlight proves tricky, try spreading the pickle on a baking sheet in a slightly warmed oven overnight.
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Once dry, transfer the mangoes and spices to three sterilised jars. Pour in the mustard or vegetable oil until it just covers the mangoes. Seal the jars and shake.
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Shake the sealed pickle every day until ready (3-4 days). Enjoy with a curry, or simply with chapati or paratha.
Cost: The price of mangoes is hugely divergent depending on where you are and the time of year. At the moment my grocer is selling them at 3 for £1, which is almost unbelieveable. As such, this batch of pickle set me back a mere £2 and will last for months. However, it may be a little more expensive, depending on the price of mangoes where you are.
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